Master class: do-it-yourself blouse

Women's wardrobe requires regular updating, which, unfortunately, is not always available for financial reasons. However, as I always like to say, dressing in beautiful and new things can be much cheaper and more often if you make them yourself. Today I will describe in detail the process of sewing a loose-fitting blouse that will suit almost any type of figure.

One-Sleeve Blouse: Pattern

The beauty of this blouse is that it has a one-piece sleeve, which is prepared very quickly and does not require sewing. This style will be modeled according to the same standard pattern-based dress... My design assumes an open back, which would not be entirely appropriate, for example, at work in the office. If you plan to go out in a blouse not only for a walk, then during the modeling process, skip the point about inserting the mesh and do without it. The same can be said for the belt. If you go for a blouse that is not tight-fitting, but a simple straight one, do not sew in the belt, close the side seams using the standard method. Now that all the nuances have been taken into account, we proceed to modeling.

1. Take a measurement of the length of the garment, and mark it from the neck down on the pattern. Draw a horizontal line.
2. Measure 5 cm down from the neck of the back. Measure 6 cm along the shoulder line. Connect points 5 and 6 with a smooth line, forming a new neck of the back.
3. From the armhole along the back, draw a line for the side seam, extending the bottom as you wish. For example, centimeters by 2.
4. From the armhole of the back to the right, draw a straight line, the length of which you want the sleeve. I did it 5 cm, respectively, and my line is 5 cm.
5. From the new neckline of the back, draw a horizontal line to the right until it can be connected at a right angle to the bottom of the sleeve (the line that was drawn from the armhole).
6. Lower the neck of the front by 5 cm.
7. From the front armhole, also sweep a straight line to the left for the desired sleeve length. Draw a perpendicular upward at a right angle.
8. From the front neckline, continue the shoulder line (a line that runs 4 cm) until it touches the sleeve line.
9. Measure along the front shoulder line that extends from the neckline 6 cm and also draw a new line for the front neckline.
10. From the armhole of the front, lower the straight line to the base of the blouse, also extending the latter.
11. The side seams on the pattern in the transition zone to the sleeve need to be slightly rounded. I showed how to do this in the diagram, in green.
12. Ignore all darts.

Tip: When the modeling is finished, use a ruler to measure the shoulder seams of the front and back. If they do not match, for example, the front shoulder will be 6 cm larger, lengthen the one where these centimeters are missing.

If you did everything correctly, your pattern will look like this.

If you do not want to make the back open, skip this point and proceed immediately to cutting. For those looking to make a mesh backing, do the following:

1. step back 3-5 cm (optional) from the back fold line and draw a straight line from the base of the top to the neckline;
2. cut out the resulting strip.

Tip: you can make a strip not rectangular, but any other, at your discretion. It can be a circle, triangle, wave, or even a heart. To do this, simply simply sketch out what you want on the pattern.

DIY blouse

For my blouse, I chose jersey material crystal. It is highly stretchable, drapes beautifully and gives a wonderful shine. My 42 size (bust 85) took 0.5 m of fabric. The larger your size, the more fabric you need.

• crystal jersey (with a margin of 1 m);
• soft mesh 15 cm (if done without an insert, then the mesh is not required);
• a ribbon for the belt, I chose elastic thin laces for these purposes (if you do not want to make a belt, then you will not need a ribbon either).

Transfer pattern for fabric... Prepare the strip that was intended for insertion from a mesh folded in half, cut the remaining parts from the main fabric. Do not forget about the seam allowances, which are 1 cm.

First you need to assemble the back. Pull the knit back and mesh strip face to face. Thread the strip with the needles. Do the same with the other half. Sew the details.

Now you need to hide the seam allowances. If this is not done, they will look ugly through the transparent fabric. To do this, unfold the allowances to the wrong side, pressing them against the knitted fabric, and pin them with needles as shown in the photo.

Sew on the seam allowances on the sewing machine. The point must be laid very evenly so that it runs parallel to the junction of the mesh and fabric. In finished form it looks like this, wrong side:

front side:

Now you need to outline the sewing area of ​​the belt. Fold your back in half and pin the place where the belt will be with a needle.

Now unfold the backrest back. Fold back and front face to face. Hand on shoulder and side seams. Sewing the side, insert a ribbon, which will serve as a belt, into both seams in the intended area.

Sew on a typewriter. Finish the hem and neckline by bending the fabric inward. You can do the same with the sleeves, but I didn't. The wonderful property of knitwear allows you to do without processing the edges, as they do not crumble. At the same time, everything looks more than neat. The main thing is to use sharp scissors when cutting the tissue.

At this point, the one-sleeve blouse is ready.