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Do-it-yourself skirt without a pattern: master class with photos

■I myself

de către Ekaterina Vasilyeva - Mar 7, 2016

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A skirt is a versatile piece of wardrobe with which you can create many unique images. It's spring outside, which means it's time to tidy up your closet and replenish it with new things, including skirts. Today we’ll talk about how you can sew a cute skirt in just a couple of hours without making any patterns at all. The sewing pattern is so simple that it is suitable even for beginners.

Skirt without a pattern: what to prepare
How to sew a skirt without a pattern
DIY skirt photo

Skirt without a pattern: what to prepare

So, first you need to decide what quality of skirt you want to make. When choosing fabric, you should first of all rely on the desired style. Do you want your skirt to be “flyy”? Then give preference to lightweight fabrics, such as chiffon or viscose. Would you like to get a skirt that will hold its shape a little, but will not stand up? Then gabardine will do.

In our master class we will use gabardine. It has a medium degree of drape, which is very suitable for the chosen style and is pliable, which means that it will be very easy for beginners to work with it. The basis of the outfit will be a medium-hard mesh. It will help the skirt to lie as it should and at the same time keep its shape and not fall off.

The amount of fabric in this case is one length of the skirt + belt + allowance for seam allowances. Let's look at an example. Do you want skirt 50 cm with a 5 cm belt, then you will need: 80 cm of fabric (50 cm + 10 cm for the belt + 20 cm reserve) + 50 cm of mesh. Always take fabric with a small margin. Sometimes stores sell defective materials (hooks, holes, etc.), so as not to spoil your future outfit or mood, it’s better to plan everything in advance.

The sewing process will be carried out using the example of size 42, skirt length 60 cm.

What you will need:

gabardine - 1 meter;
mesh (medium hardness) - 60 cm;
lace - 1.5 meters;
threads in the color of fabric and lace;
secret lock (20 cm);
non-woven adhesive - 15 cm;
sewing machine;
tailor's tools (scissors, seam ripper, needle, crayons, etc.).

Materials

How to sew a skirt without a pattern

First you need to cut out the skirt. Cut off the edge of the fabric on both sides, as it is never used in sewing. Then, using a chalk, draw a rectangle on the prepared material. The width of the rectangle (skirt) = the width of the fabric is 150 cm. The height of the rectangle = the length of the skirt (we will sew a skirt 60 cm, if you wish, you can make it any length, shorter or longer). Cut the finished rectangle with scissors.

On the remaining fabric, draw a second rectangle, this will be the belt. The width of the rectangle = waist circumference (+3 cm), and the height = double the width of the future belt (i.e. if you want a 5 cm belt, then the height of the rectangle is 10 cm).

Future skirt belt

You need to cut out a similar large triangle from the mesh, which will be a little smaller in height so that the future petticoat does not peek out from the hem.

Treat two parts of the future skirt so that the fabric does not crumble and even looks presentable from the inside out. If you don’t have an overlocker, you can use a machine by installing a special foot in advance (the mesh is not processed). In the photo below, the waistband of the skirt is processed with this paw.

Overlock foot for fabric processing

Treated fabric

On the front side of the hem of the skirt, for convenience, draw a line in chalk along which you will sew the lace. This will allow everything to go smoothly.

We outline the location of the lace on the hem of the skirt

Sew the lace along the marked line. It is better to fix the lace at the very beginning, then when sewing the skirt, the “tails” of the decoration will go inside, which will look very beautiful.

Fixing lace

Next, let's prepare the belt. Cut a rectangle the size of a belt from non-woven fabric, but do it in such a way that the processed edges of the belt remain untouched. Non-woven fabric is needed so that the belt keeps its shape, does not twist and “wrinkle” at the waist when the product is worn.

Trying on non-woven fabric

Once you are sure that the interlining lies properly and covers the fabric sufficiently, make sure that it is with the adhesive side inward (the adhesive side of the interlining has a rough surface). Then go over it with a not very hot iron, sometimes adding steam. If the iron is hot, the front side of the interlining may melt and stick to the iron.

Glue the interlining

The future belt can be immediately folded and ironed thoroughly.

Belt

Let's start assembling the product. The mesh needs to be sewn to the top of the skirt from the wrong side. Preset the stitch length to 4mm. You will need to make 2 parallel lines with a gap of 0.5 - 1 cm. When tightening the skirt, this will help make a more even gathering.

Sew the mesh to the main fabric

Grasp the bottom threads hanging on both sides and begin to gently pull the top of the skirt, distributing the material evenly on the threads. Do this carefully so as not to break the thread, otherwise you will have to do everything again. Gather until the width of the fabric reaches the width of the waistband.

Gather the top of the skirt

At the edges, leave 2 cm of fabric free from the tie so that you can sew in a lock.

Place for a castle

Afterwards, you need to run the sewing machine along the top of the skirt again, but this time changing the stitch length to 1.5. This will commit the resulting assembly.

Fixing the assembly

The next step is to sew on the belt, but not all of it, just the bottom. Right side together, connect the top of the skirt and the belt. Place the line just below the assembly fixing line so that the latter is not visible from the “face” of the product. We leave part of the belt free so that it is convenient to hide the lock later.

Attaching the belt

Sew on the lock.

How to properly sew a lock to a skirt with a belt can be seen in this detailed video.

Using a hidden hand stitch (with the needle backwards) we hide the lock under the belt.

All that remains is to close the back seam with a regular sewing stitch. Don't forget to secure the waistband, which we left loose, with hand stitches in several places on the wrong side. Iron the skirt thoroughly, paying special attention to the back seam. This concludes the process of sewing a skirt without a pattern. You can try on new clothes and enjoy the fruits of your creativity!