Home I myself Sun skirt: detailed master class

Sun skirt: detailed master class

■I myself

by Ekaterina Vasilyeva - Jun 20, 2016

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A skirt is always beautiful and feminine, and a circle skirt is femininity a thousandfold. Sewing the latter is very simple, and wearing the fruits of your creativity is many times more pleasant than a purchased item. Today's article is a detailed, step-by-step master class with photographs. After reading it, you will be able to sew a wonderful skirt, spending just a couple of hours of free time on it.

Fabric for sun skirt
Sun skirt pattern
We sew a sun skirt

Fabric for sun skirt

The choice of fabric is one of the fundamental factors for success in tailoring a product. Even if you correctly determined the style of the outfit that suits your body type and color scheme, but at the same time bought fabric of the wrong structure, texture and quality, the result will disappoint you. However, most materials are suitable for a sun skirt; you just need to know what kind of product you want to get. The best option is a fabric of medium hardness and the same degree of drape. Gabardine fits this description perfectly. This is a very high quality fabric that does not shrink when washed and is wear-resistant. Items made from gabardine retain their original appearance for a very long time; they are easy to iron and wrinkle slightly.

Sun skirt pattern

In our master class skirt Sewn to size 42 (waist circumference 64 cm). Fabric consumption is taken into account the length just above the knee (45 cm from the waist). If you are planning a longer or, conversely, shorter skirt, then you will need more or less fabric, respectively.

So, for work you will need the following materials:

gabardine - 1.3 m;
doublerin (or non-woven fabric) - 30 cm (with a width of 150 cm);
bias tape - 4 m;
secret lock 20 cm;
a spool of thread to match the fabric;
button;
soft mesh - 0.5 m.

Before you start working, be sure to iron the fabric. Firstly, the material will shrink slightly, and secondly, the fabric will be much more pleasant to work with.

The circle skirt pattern is so simple that you can make it directly on the fabric, without transferring from paper.

Fold the ironed fabric in half. To prevent the material from “moving” while creating the pattern and cutting out parts, carefully pin the folded area with needles.

Then measure and mark the middle of the fabric fold with contrasting chalk.

Next you need to calculate the radius. In order not to build complex diagrams, simply divide the waist circumference (+ 0.5 cm) by 6.28. For example, if the waist circumference is 65 cm, then the radius will be: 65.5/6.28 = 10.4 cm. Attention, if you plan to sew a circle skirt with an elastic band, then calculate the radius according to the circumference of the hips, otherwise you simply will not be able to wear it.

From the intended center, measure the resulting radius to the right, left and down at right angles. Then connect the three dots to create a semicircle like this. To make the figure even, use a centimeter as a compass.

Now you should set aside the length of the skirt. From the edges of the drawn semicircle, use a ruler to measure the desired length of the skirt. And draw another semicircle.

Draw a straight line in the center of the skirt - this is the future seam where the lock will go.

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Now be sure to try it on. Wrap the skirt around your waist and check that everything fits well. If the waist circumference of the skirt is much larger, you should remove the excess fabric. To do this, determine exactly how much you have to cut, then divide by 2 and measure the difference from the two edges of the skirt and cut.

We sew a sun skirt

Attention, never cut off the entire difference on one side, otherwise the edges of the skirt will not meet and you will simply ruin the material. Remember that you must have seam allowances. Along the waist line it is 1 cm, along the side seam 2 cm, and along the hem (for a sun skirt) 0.5 cm.Finish the edges of the skirt using an overlocker or machine: the bottom and side seams. Leave the waistline untouched.

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The next couple of paragraphs will talk about the decorative element of the skirt, which is made at will. If you want to leave only bias tape along the bottom, then just scroll down the article.

Cut strips of soft mesh about 2-3 cm wide. This is a future decorative assembly. The number of stripes depends on the width of the bottom of the skirt. For reference: the width of the skirt in the photo is slightly more than 3.6 m; 11 of these strips were used to decorate it.

Sew the strips together, turning them into one long ribbon. Then set the stitch on the machine to at least 3 mm, loosen the thread tension and stitch along the tape, a centimeter from the edge. Then use your hands to gather the strip, forming ruffles. For these purposes, you can purchase a special foot (pictured), which will immediately make a decorative element from any fabric.

You will get such cute ruffles.

Attach a ruffle to the wrong side of the skirt so that the wavy mesh peeks out from the front side, but the seam is not visible.

Machine stitch them. It is advisable to sew the ruffle along the same line as the bias tape, or so that the new line runs parallel to the previous one. Don't worry if you can't get the ruffles straight once you sew them to the skirt, just trim them with scissors and that's it.

Now fold and iron the back seam allowance.

Baste the lock and sew it on using a special blind lock foot.

Close the back seam.

The secret lock on the front side should not be visible.

Press the back seam from the wrong side.

Now let's start sewing the belt. To do this, cut a rectangle out of fabric. Its length should be 5 cm greater than your waist circumference (of which 3 cm for entry and 2 cm for processing). The width is equal to double the width of the desired belt + 2 cm for processing. Those. if you want to make a 5 cm belt, then the width of the workpiece will be 12 cm (5 x 2 + 2 cm). Cut a similar rectangle from dublerin (you can use non-woven fabric, it’s cheaper). Apply the doublerin with an adhesive base to the wrong side of the belt and glue with an iron. Then overlock one side of the waistband.

Mark the allowances left earlier. The button will be located on the right side, so we leave 4 cm there, and 1 cm on the left side, there will be a loop. Draw the lines taking into account that the belt will be sewn to the skirt with the raw side.

Using needles, baste the belt to the skirt, leaving the marked ends free.

Sew the waistband with the raw side to the skirt, 1cm from the edge.

Before you continue sewing, be sure to make sure that the back seams of the waistband meet. All irregularities will be noticeable when worn, which looks unsightly.

Turn the left side of the belt out as shown in the photo and secure the corner with a needle.

Machine stitch at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. This centimeter was just left for processing.

Then carefully cut off the allowance at a distance of a couple of millimeters.

Turn the corner of the belt right side out. Correct the corners by lifting the seam allowances from the wrong side. You should end up with a smooth corner like this.

Do the same on the other side. Start stitching at the top, halfway down reduce the stitch length and sew the corner of the waistband, then increase the stitch length and stitch to the end. Turn right side out and straighten all corners as well.

Fold the waistband to its final shape. Iron it and the seam that connects the waistband to the skirt from the right side.

Pin the belt so that it lies motionless on the skirt. From the “face” of the product, sew a stitch exactly into the seam shown in the photo. When working on the machine, use your hands to slightly spread the skirt so that you can clearly see where to hit the needle.

The threads that remain after sewing must be hidden so that there are no knots. To do this, make 2-3 knots, tighten them well, then thread both threads into one needle and insert the last one into the belt, and after 2-3 cm. Cut off the tail that comes out.

We make a loop on the left side. It is located 0.5 cm from the edge, exactly in the center. Mark the beginning, attach the button and trace it (the beginning and end of the button). This will be the size of the loop. Do the latter using a special foot.

Open the loop with a seam ripper. This should be done from the edges to the center. Cut very carefully so as not to damage the threads.

Now you need to determine where to sew the button. To do this, connect the belt and pierce the very edge of the loop with a needle. Then remove the loop and sew on the button, stepping back 3 millimeters from the puncture site.