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Skirt pattern basis: detailed step-by-step instructions

■I myself

by Ekaterina Vasilieva - Mar 23, 2016

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Sewing a skirt is absolutely not difficult, as it might seem at first glance. This article provides detailed instructions for building a pattern that will help you create a unique outfit even for beginners. After reading the article, you will find out what measurements are needed and how to take them correctly, how to correctly create a base pattern, what it is used for and how the future product is cut correctly.

Skirt measurements

The diagram perfectly displays all the measurements that are needed to build patterns for the base of the skirt... First, you need to make measurements in full, without any additional divisions. In this article, 42 sizes are taken as an example, and you substitute your data.

The length of the finished product is 50 cm (measured from the waistline to the level of the desired skirt length). Do not forget about seam allowances and hem. Standard stock is 2 cm on each side. Ie: 50 cm + 4 cm = 54 cm.
Waist circumference - 66 cm (measured at the narrowest point of the torso).
Hip circumference - 92 cm (measured at the most convex part of the buttocks).

Then, the measurements of the circumference of the waist and hips must be divided by 2 to get a half-girth. It turns out:

St - 33 cm (half waist measurement).
Sat - 46 cm (half hip measurement).

That's all. All measurements have been taken, now you can proceed to the construction of the drawing itself. Take graph paper, or a regular Whatman paper, pencil, ruler, eraser and go.

Building the base of the skirt

First, in fact, the pattern itself.

Now step by step how to build it. Don't forget, in this example, measures 42 sizes for women's clothing. You, along the way, substitute your data, which was obtained by measurement.

Construct a rectangle ABCD. Side AB = CD and AD = BC. Sides AB and CD are equal to Sb + 1 cm (for all sizes). 33 cm + 1 cm = 34 cm. Sides AD and BC are identical to the length of the product, i.e. 50 cm (allowances for seams and hem, which were mentioned above, must be made already on the fabric).
Next, you need to draw up the line of the side seam. Divide the segment AB in half and put a point T. From the obtained point, draw a perpendicular until it touches the line DC.
From point A down, along line AD, set aside 22 cm (for all sizes) and put point L. From it to the right, draw a straight line, and at the intersections with lines T and B put points L1 and L2.
Now you need to determine the depth of future darts. To do this, subtract the waist half from the measurement of the half-girth of the hips. The measure must be taken taking into account the increase of 1 cm, which you did at the very beginning: 47 cm - 34 cm = 13 cm. Half is removed into the side dart (coming from the side seam), i.e. 6.5 cm, 3.25 cm on each side. The depth of the front dart is slightly less than the back one, by 1-2 cm, - 2.5 cm, i.e. 1.25 cm per side. And the back one "takes" the remainder - 4 cm, 2 cm per side.
Now you need to transfer the calculations to the pattern. From point T to the left and right, set aside 3.25 cm (half of the side dart). The dart should be raised above the waistline by 1 cm (for all sizes). From the resulting point 1, draw a straight line to point L1 on both sides of the dart, as shown in the figure.
Divide the segment 1L1 in half, and at the point of division at a right angle, measure 0.5 cm.Put a point.
Using a mold, draw a curved line. If you do not have a template, do everything by hand, the main thing is that the line is smooth.
Form the front dart. From the calculations, it is clear that the depth of the dart is 2.5 cm. From the side seam line to the right, set aside 6 cm and at a right angle lower the straight line to the line of the hips. The front dart length is 10 cm (for all sizes). On the waist line, from where the perpendicular was laid, set aside 1.25 cm to the right and left (half of the front dart) and connect the points obtained, forming a full dart, as in the diagram above. For beauty, you can shift point 10 by 0.5 cm to the side, the main thing is to make sure that the height of the sides of the dart is the same.
Create a back dart. Its depth is 4 cm (from calculations). Divide the AT segment in half and at the point of division, set aside 2 cm on each side. Draw a straight line down, on which measure 13 cm from the waistline - this is the length of the dart, the same for all sizes. Connect the dots by creating a back dart.
Skirt halves decoration. On the rear side: connect lifting point 1 to dart point 2. On the front half: connect lifting point 1 to dart point 1.25.

It's so simple, literally in 10 steps, a pattern-base of a skirt is built.

How to cut a skirt

As soon as the pattern according to your individually taken measurements is ready, it must be transferred to the fabric. As a standard, the pattern is placed along the lobar thread that runs parallel to the edge.

The pattern must be pinned to the fabric with needles so that the first does not crawl throughout the space. When transferring the pattern to the fabric, do not forget about the allowances for the seams. It is customary to leave from 1 to 2 cm for processing.

If the skirt is made with an elastic band, then there will be 2 parts of the product - the front and back halves. The same applies if the future new thing is sewn on a side lock. But if the skirt is locked at the back, then there will be 3 parts - the front half and 2 rear ones.

Finished parts are processed on an overlock and only then stitched together. Do not detract from the role of ironing the seams, and always steam the garment before trying it on. As they say, most of the mistakes of a tailor can be corrected by an iron.

The base pattern has such a name because it is on it that almost all types of skirts are sewn. Before manufacturing, you only need to carry out a simulation operation. For example, to create pencil skirts it is enough to correct the line of the side seam by narrowing the bottom of the skirt to the desired number of centimeters.