Pattern for the base of the dress: step-by-step instructions

The dress base pattern is a tool with which you can model a dress of absolutely any style. This article provides step-by-step instructions on how to build a basic pattern, make a sleeve model, and also provides an example of modeling based on the received drawings. 

Dress measurements

To create a pattern you will need:

• product length;
• back length to waist;
• shoulder length;
• semi-girth around the neck;
• half-circumference above the chest (removable over the chest);
• half chest circumference;
• semi-circumference at the waist;
• semi-circumference at the hips;
• armhole height size.

Constructing a pattern for the base of the dress

This is what the drawing itself looks like, to which these instructions are attached. Focus on it if necessary.

Pattern formulas

• To calculate the back width: 1/8 chest circumference +5.5 cm (for all sizes).
• To calculate the armhole width: 1/8 chest circumference - 1.5 cm (for all sizes).
• To calculate chest width: 1/4 chest circumference - 4 cm (for all sizes).

There is also a formula for calculating the depth of the armhole, but the data obtained through it is in most cases inaccurate. Therefore, if you want the dress to fit like a glove, then measure the armhole yourself, without using additional calculations.

Before you start building a dress, you need to understand what silhouette it will be: loose, fitted or tight. Based on this, you need to decide on the allowance for freedom of fit. Look at the table and take the data that suits you. However, it is worth remembering that for a very tight dress you need to choose elastic fabrics that have a lot of stretch. It is impossible to obtain a similar silhouette from non-stretchy materials.

1. Draw a rectangle ABDC, where the height is the length of the product, and the width is the half-bust circumference + increase for fit. For example, the half-chest circumference is 42 cm, then if you want to sew an outfit with a semi-fitting silhouette, you need to take an increase of 1.5-2 cm: 42+2=44 cm. And so on.
2. From point A, measure down the height of the armhole, not forgetting to add an increase for the freedom of fit, mark the place with point G. From it, check the straight line until it touches side BC and place G1.
3. From point G to the right side, measure the width of the back, adding the increase for fit according to the table. From the resulting mark to the right, measure the width of the armhole. Draw perpendiculars to AB.
4. Divide the armhole in half. From there, draw a straight line down to the very base. This is the side line.
5. Divide each of the resulting two armhole lines into 4 equal segments, measuring crosses.
6. From point A to the right side, measure: 1/3 of the half-circumference along the neck + 0.5 cm, and raise the point at a right angle by 2 cm.
7. Points A and 2 are smoothly connected by a curved line, forming the back neckline.
8. On the back armhole line, where the crosses were marked, measure down 1 cm from the top if the shoulders are straight, or 2 cm if they are sloping. From point 2 (neck) through mark 1 (2), draw a straight line equal to the shoulder line, taking into account an increase of 0.5 cm.
9. From the bottom corner of the armhole, measure 2 cm at a right angle and indicate point 2.
10. Draw the armhole, passing through: the shoulder point, the second and third auxiliary marks, point 2 and the top of the side line.
11. Now move on to the front of the dress. From point G1 up, draw a straight line: 1/2 of the half-circumference across the chest (without increments) + 0.5 cm. Set point W. From the last one to the left, draw a line, while increasing the auxiliary line of the armhole so that the latter and the line from point W are connected.
12. From point W to the left, measure: 1/3 of the half-circumference along the neck + 0.5 cm (draw the same measurement from point W to the inside of the pattern, dividing the angle into equal parts). Measure 4 cm from the intended point. Measure 1 cm from mark 4 down and connect to the edge of the neckline.
13. From point W downwards, measure: 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 1.5 cm. Connect the three marks with a curved smooth line, outlining the front neckline.
14. From point 1 (shoulder of the shelf), draw a straight line down to chest level, shifting the end point 1 cm to the right. This is the right side of the bust dart.
15. Divide the drawn line equally, and from the center, at a right angle, draw the difference between the half-circumferences along the chest above the chest.
16. The missing side of the chest dart is drawn from the base of the right one, through the point of difference in the half-circumference of the chest. Its length is identical to the right one.
17. Connect the top of the left dart with a dotted line to the top mark of the armhole division on the back. On the drawn line from the top of the dart, measure: shoulder length - 4 cm. Lower the mark below by 2 cm and connect it to the top of the left dart.
18. From the shoulder point (2), lower the dotted line, connecting it to the lowest dividing point of the front armhole. Divide the dotted line in half, and measure 1 cm from the point of division to the right.
19. In the lower corner of the shelf armhole, divide in half, set aside 2 cm.
20. Using a neat curved line, draw the armhole of the front, through the points: 2, 1, lower division point, 2, middle of the side.

This completes the construction of the top of the dress. Next, proceed to constructing the rest of the pattern.

1. From point A, measure down the length of your back. Mark it as a point T, and lay a horizontal line to side BC, marking T1. This is the waist line.
2. Measure 20-22 cm down from point T and mark it with point L (the indicator is relevant for all sizes). Draw a horizontal line to side BC and set point L1. This is the hip line.
3. Calculate the darts. Half chest circumference - half waist circumference. The resulting difference should be closed in darts. This is done according to the following scheme: 1/3 goes into the side darts, the remaining part is divided between the back and the front, while a little more than the shelf is always removed from the back.
4. At the place where the side line intersects with line TT1, measure the boundaries of the darts to the right and left. Connect the marked points to the mark of the middle of the armhole with a straight line. From the waist line, round the hips at the side line, drawing it to the base. This creates a side seam line.
5. Divide the width of the back in half and draw a straight line down to hip level. Measure darts at the waistline on each side. Measure 3-4 cm from the armhole line along the dart line, and step back 2 cm from the hip line. Connect the marks that appear, drawing the back dart.
6. Build a tuck at the front of the dress. From the bottom of the bust dart, draw a straight line to the hip line. At waist level on each side, set aside the front dart measurement. On top of the drawn line, retreat 5-6 cm. Connect the dots to form a dart.

The base of the dress pattern is completely ready! Now you can start the fun part, cutting and sewing the product itself.

Sleeve pattern for a dress

Some dress styles require sleeves. By creating a sleeve pattern once, you can model different styles, including the popular puff sleeve.

To create a drawing you will need:

• back length;
• shoulder length;
• 1/2 neck circumference;
• 1/2 chest circumference;
• 1/2 circle above the chest;
• 1/2 hip circumference;
• sleeve length;
• 1/2 wrist circumference.

1. Draw rectangle ABCD. Lines AB and DC are equal: 1/3 of the semicircle around the chest + 1 cm x 2. Lines AD and BC are equal to the length of the future sleeve.
2. From point A, measure down 3/4 of the armhole height. Mark with point P and draw a straight line until it touches side BC, marking with point P1.
3. Divide line AB into four equal parts and lay segments from the identified points to side DC. Name the points as shown in the diagram.
4. Connect point O with a dotted line to P and P1. Place point O3 on the intersection line O1H.
5. On segment O1H, raise the intersection point O3 1.5 cm higher and designate it as O5.
6. Divide segment PO3 in half and measure down 0.5 cm, marking it with a dot 0.5.
7. Divide the O3O segment in half and measure up 2 cm, marking it with dot 2.
8. Divide segment OO4 in half and set aside 1.5 cm upward, marking it with a dot 1.5.
9. Divide O4P1 in half and measure down 2 cm.
10. Connect the marked marks with a curved smooth line as shown in the image.

The sleeve pattern is ready. If you want to make it shorter, simply move the bottom line to the required distance, as shown in the diagram.

To narrow a sleeve, measure half the difference between the width of the sleeve and the wrist on both sides of the bottom of the sleeve. And then draw lines from the armhole to the resulting points as can be seen in the diagram.

Dress pattern: modeling

Now the promised modeling example. Many people consider this process complicated and subject only to professionals, but this is far from the case, and now you will see this.

Let's look at how to construct a dress pattern with embossed seams “Princess”, based on an existing one basic patterns.

1. The darts must be shifted: 3 cm to the right on the back, and 2 cm to the left on the shelf.
2. On both halves, retreat 6 cm along the armhole.
3. Connect point 6 with a smooth line to the tops of the darts, and from the ends of the latter draw lines to the hem of the dress.
4. From the point of the bust dart, cut a piece so that it touches the curved line 6-2. The pattern will need to be cut along this line to cover the large bust dart.
5. Cut out the pattern and then close the large bust dart. The resulting small dart needs to be closed when transferring the parts to the fabric.

You need to cut out the parts according to this principle:

With the help of such a dress you can visually correct your figure, especially if you choose two materials that contrast in color. For example, cut the sides from black fabric, and the center of the back and front from beige.

As you can see, modeling is not at all complicated, but, on the contrary, is a rather entertaining creative process. Turn on your imagination 100% and create unique, inimitable masterpieces!